Lake County, Northern California Sweet Spot
Story and Photos by Lee Daley
Drive a few hours north of downtown San Francisco and a different world awaits. On a recent getaway, my city stress lessened and lessened, almost in layers, and finally just plain disappeared once my ramble north landed in the land of lakes, aptly named Lake County. With dormant winter chill now giving way to warmer, sunnier days, I found a haven of rolling hillsides and emerald green valleys nestled in the grandeur of mountainsides. Grape vines and trees are just starting to open their buds, lake fishing looks good and goats in the valleys are having their kids.
In the western notch of Lake County, Mt Konocti separates Upper Lake from Lower Lake, names that help you orient during your explorations. My husband and I chose to stay in Upper Lake because we liked the looks and history of the Tallman Hotel located right downtown within a two-minute walk of other attractions like the Blue Wing Saloon & Café, the art-filled Mercantile outlet and easy driving distance to the county’s more than 30-plus wineries, many award-winning.
Sunday Brunch with shades of Joan Baez at the Blue Wing Saloon: Imagine walking into the Blue Wing Saloon & Café on a Sunday morning, ready for a hearty brunch and then feeling convinced Joan Baez was there singing on stage. That’s how we felt as we entered the front door and heard Gloria Strasburg’s crystalline voice channeling Baez’s “Diamonds and Rust.” Our delicious brunch was gloriously enhanced by Ms. Strasburg’s renditions of classic tunes as she was accompanied by her partner, guitarist and vocalist, Dan Coffin. In addition to her Joan Baez sound-alike performance, Ms. Strasburg did an awesome Patsy Cline on “Crazy.”
We’d had dinner at the Blue Wing the evening of our arrival. While it has an elegant California walnut bar, the food and wine are definitely not “bar food.” Menu items include baked oysters, roasted beet salad, fresh from the ocean cioppino, and filet mignon with a red wine demi-glace and fresh thyme. I managed to top off my delectable dinner with an outstanding Napoleon pastry.
At Blue Wing, Chef Pablo’s menu is a work of art. After years in the San Francisco culinary world, he yearned to return to Lake County. From the number of patrons we joined on a Saturday evening, it’s clear his return is greatly appreciated.
Chacewater Winery and Olive Mill: Named for owner Paul Manuel’s ancestral hometown in Cornwall, UK, the family-owned and operated Chacewater Winery in nearby Kelseyville uses, as its symbol, the mark of a Chacewater church craftsman. We were happy we visited since most productions are less than 10,000 cases and sales are usually through boutique retailers, farmers’ markets, online or at the tasting room. Certified organic and focusing on quality, the winery has recently garnered an impressive list of accolades including the Double-Gold Medal for its 2015 Muscat Canelli (98 Points) at the CA State Fair Commercial Wine Competition. Another outstanding entry, the 2019 Chacewater Sauvignon Blanc won the Gold Medal 2020 Critics Challenge Award.
Our tasting confirmed the experts’ opinions–wonderful aroma, color, body, and a lingering after-taste that is hard to forget. Here too, the winery’s olive mill presses and processes Gold-medal-winning olive oils including Sevillano, Mission, and Allegra. All wines and olive oils are organic. Needless to say, we succumbed enough to bring home a variety of wine, bottles of olive oil, and a vow to return. If you visit Chasewater, please leave some for us.
Getting Outdoors: Located on the shores of California’s largest freshwater lake, Clear Lake State Park boasts a family-friendly swimming beach, picnic tables, boat launches and a marina. Nearby campsites border diverse hiking trails.
Feasting your eyes on Clear Lake, Mt. Konocti and Lake County’s diverse terrain is art in its own right. The natural beauty of the region draws artists and art lovers, wine growers, and aficionados of all kinds. Browse the wineries, tour the galleries, cruise the winding roads for a true appreciation of how art and wine beautifully blend together.
If You Go
Tallman Hotel: Built in the 1860s, then rebuilt after a fire in the 1890s, the Tallman Hotel has been a hallmark of Upper Lake for more than a century. Originally consisting of a hotel, a stable and the welcoming Blue Wing Saloon & Cafe, the restored historic site stands as originally constructed but beautifully renovated thanks to the love of its owners, Lynne and Bernie Butcher. The hotel kitchen serves up a sumptuous breakfast buffet in their light-filled dining room with farm-fresh eggs, homemade banana bread and granola, local organic coffee and fresh juice. http://www.tallmanhotel.com/
Listed on the California Register of Historical Resources, the hotel’s suites retain their vintage decor with some period Western furnishings and the use of the original redwood paneling throughout. My spouse and I found ourselves in suite 13. Once a small farmhouse on the hotel grounds, it is now a comfortably renovated suite with a sitting room. Some of the suites feature private outdoor Japanese soaking tubs. (The hotel is ranked #1 on trip advisor out of 25 hotels and resorts in Lake County.)
Chacewater Winery and Olive Mill: Tasting Room Open Daily. Visit https://chacewaterwine.com. Tel: 707–279–2995.
An earlier version of this story appears on Epicurean Destinations where you can view dozens of award-winning national and international travel destination articles. Visit here: https://epicureandestinations.com/
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Local Wine and Culinary Experiences at Liana Estates: https://travelexaminer.net/napa-valley/
